You can have the right rod, the right reel and a tray full of lures - and still drop fish all day if the line is wrong. Too thick and you kill casting distance and lure action. Too light and a decent salmon or snook finds the nearest reef edge and says goodbye. The good news is choosing line is simple once you match it to what you’re actually doing on the water.

How to choose fishing line: start with the job, not the brand

Most line mistakes happen before anyone even looks at a spool. Decide three things first: your target species and terrain (sand, weed, reef, pylons), your technique (bait, plastics, hardbodies, metals, squid jigs), and your realistic casting range.

A metro Adelaide surf session for salmon and mullet on metals asks for a different line to bream and whiting on light gear in the shallows, and different again to squid on Egi gear around weed and jetty structure. Once you’re clear on the job, choosing between braid, mono and fluorocarbon becomes a practical decision, not a debate.

Braid vs mono vs fluorocarbon (and what each is best at)

Braid: sensitivity and distance, with a trade-off

Braid is the go-to for lure work because it’s thin for its strength, casts a mile and transmits taps, bumps and weed fouling instantly. It also packs neatly on smaller reels so you can run higher breaking strain without turning your spool into a football.

The trade-off is abrasion resistance and forgiveness. Braid has little stretch, so sudden lunges can pull hooks or pop weak knots. Around reef, pylons and oysters it needs a leader - not optional, just part of the system.

Monofilament: easy handling and shock absorption

Mono is still brilliant for bait fishing, beginners and any situation where you want stretch as a shock absorber. It’s generally cheaper, knots easily, and it’s forgiving when someone grabs the rod late or a fish hits close to the rocks.

The downside is diameter and memory. Thicker line means less distance and more drag in the water, and cheap mono can spring off the spool in coils. For finesse lure work, mono can also feel dull compared to braid.

Fluorocarbon: abrasion resistance and stealth, mainly as leader

Fluorocarbon shines as leader material because it’s tough, sinks well and is less visible in clear water. If you fish rocky ground, jetty pylons, mussel beds, or you’re targeting line-shy species in calm conditions, fluoro is one of the easiest upgrades you can make.

As a main line it can work, but it’s stiffer and more expensive, and it can be harder to manage on a spinning reel. Most anglers get the best value using braid or mono main line with a fluorocarbon leader.

Line class: choose breaking strain that matches your terrain

If you only take one rule from this, make it this: choose line for the structure you might have to stop a fish in, not the average fish you expect.

On clean sand flats you can fish lighter because the bottom won’t cut you off. Near reef, weed edges, rock walls and marina structure you need a bit of insurance.

For common SA scenarios, a practical starting point looks like this.

For whiting and bream on light spin gear, many anglers run light braid with a lighter leader to keep casts long and presentations natural. For squid, slightly heavier leader is common because they fight dirty around weed and pylons and you’ll often be lifting them rather than playing them out.

For salmon, tailor and general beach and jetty spinning, step up in line class. You want distance, but you also want enough strength to handle side pressure and any sudden rub on rocks. For snapper, gummies and bigger mixed-bag species from boat or kayak, go heavier again - not because every fish is huge, but because the ones that matter don’t give second chances.

If you’re unsure, aim for a balanced setup where your leader is the weak link. That way, if something has to give, you lose a rig or lure rather than a full spool or a rod tip in the rocks.

Diameter matters more than the number on the box

Not all “10 lb” lines are equal. Some braids are thick for their rating, some are thin. Mono and fluorocarbon vary too. Diameter affects three key things: casting distance, how much line you can fit on the spool, and how the lure swims.

If your lure feels like it’s dragging or your small hardbody won’t reach its depth, you may be over-lining the setup. If you’re getting dusted every time a fish touches structure, you may be under-lining or running too light a leader.

Leader choices: where most setups are won or lost

Leader length: practical, not religious

A short leader is quick to tie and easy to manage, especially if you’re casting all day. A longer leader gives more abrasion resistance and can help when fish are spooky in clear water.

As a rule, use a leader long enough to handle the likely contact points - jaws, gill plates, reef, pylons - without making your casting life miserable. If your leader knot is constantly clacking through the guides and costing distance, shorten it or refine the knot.

Leader strength: match abrasion risk

On flats and open water you can go lighter and get more bites. Around rocks and weed, go heavier. For squid jigs, a slightly heavier fluoro leader can reduce bust-offs when they grab weed or you’re lifting them at the edge.

If you’re lure fishing for bream or whiting and getting short strikes, dropping leader size can help. If you’re getting cut off, go the other way and accept you might sacrifice a few bites for fewer heartbreaks.

Knots and connections: the quiet cause of most break-offs

The best line in the world fails if the knot is rushed.

For braid to leader, choose a slim connection knot you can tie consistently. Many anglers use an FG-style knot for a very slim profile, but if you can’t tie it cleanly under pressure, you’re better off using a simpler knot you can do perfectly every time. Consistency beats complexity.

For mono or fluorocarbon to hooks and lures, use a strong, well-seated knot and wet it before tightening. Check the tag end hasn’t slipped, and pull-test every new rig. It takes five seconds and saves a session.

Reel and rod pairing: don’t ignore spool size

Small spinning reels benefit from braid because you get more usable line capacity and better casting. Larger overhead and game setups often run heavier mono for stretch and abrasion resistance, sometimes with wind-on leaders depending on the system.

Also consider how you fish. If you’re casting metals for salmon in the surf, line lay and casting distance matter - thin braid with a suitable leader is a common choice. If you’re bait fishing and letting fish run, mono’s stretch can be a genuine advantage.

Technique-based setups that work in SA

For soft plastics, vibe lures and light hardbodies, braid with a fluorocarbon leader keeps you in touch with the lure and improves hook-ups. If you’re fishing weed beds, don’t be afraid to step up leader strength to avoid constant re-tying.

For bait fishing off jetties and in the surf, mono is simple and forgiving, particularly for mixed species where bites can be subtle but runs can be sudden. If you’re fishing near structure, a tougher leader section can take the punishment.

For squid, a dedicated Egi outfit with braid and a fluorocarbon leader is popular because you can feel the jig and manage slack line, but the leader needs to handle abrasion when they wrap in weed or you lift them near the edge.

Quick checks before you buy or spool up

If the line feels rough straight off the spool, it won’t improve with time. If you can’t tie a reliable knot with it, it’s not the right line for you. If you’re constantly re-tying due to wind knots or coils, you may need to adjust line diameter, line type, or your spooling tension.

When spooling, keep steady tension and don’t overfill the spool lip. Too much line invites wind knots on spinning reels. Too little reduces casting distance.

If you’re building a full setup and want everything to match - main line, leader, hooks, swivels, jig heads and the right tools to rig it cleanly - you can do it in one hit through Reel ’n’ Deal Tackle and spend more time fishing and less time chasing missing bits.

The smarter way to think about line

Instead of asking “what’s the best fishing line?”, ask “where is my line most likely to fail today?” If the answer is abrasion, prioritise leader and toughness. If it’s missed bites and poor lure action, prioritise diameter and sensitivity. If it’s knot failure, slow down and simplify.

The best line choice is the one you trust enough to fish properly - because confidence changes how you cast, how you set hooks and how hard you lean when it matters.