A pair of fishing pliers earns its place quickly. It cuts leader when the bite is on, removes a hook from an awkward fish, closes a split ring, crimps a sleeve and keeps your fingers away from teeth, spines and trebles. Knowing how to pick fishing pliers comes down to matching the tool to the fishing you actually do, not simply grabbing the biggest pair on the shelf.

For Adelaide anglers, that might mean light, corrosion-resistant pliers for whiting and bream in the gulf, longer jaws for snapper or squid work from the boat, or a tougher cutter for braid-heavy surf and rock fishing. The right pair should feel useful every session and still work properly after a season around saltwater.

Start with the jobs your pliers need to do

Fishing pliers are not all built for the same task. Before looking at material, handle colour or accessories, think about the rigging and fish handling jobs you do most often.

If you mainly fish light estuary, creek or inshore water, a compact pair that cuts braid and handles small split rings is usually the practical choice. These are easy to keep in a pocket, tackle bag or lure tray, and the shorter nose gives good control around small hooks.

Boat anglers chasing snapper, kingfish, tuna or reef species often benefit from longer needle-nose pliers. Extra reach matters when a hook is set deep or when you are dealing with a lively fish beside the gunwale. For game fishing and heavier rigging, look for a stronger body, reliable cutters and jaws that can crimp sleeves or work with heavier terminal tackle.

Squid anglers have slightly different needs. Long, narrow jaws help remove jigs and hooks without damaging the catch, while a quality line cutter makes quick work of leader and braid. If you regularly swap trebles, single hooks or assist hooks on lures, split-ring capability should move high on your list.

How to pick fishing pliers by material

Saltwater exposes weak tools fast. A cheap steel pair may look fine at first, then seize at the hinge, stain and lose its cutting edge after a few wet trips. Material is one of the biggest differences between pliers that last and pliers that become rubbish in the bottom of a tackle box.

Aluminium is light and highly practical

Anodised aluminium fishing pliers are a strong all-round option for regular saltwater use. They are light in the hand, resist corrosion well and are available in compact through to heavy-duty designs. This is a good choice for lure fishers, boat anglers and anyone who carries pliers on a lanyard all day.

The trade-off is that aluminium jaws are not designed to replace a heavy workshop tool. They are excellent for hooks, rings, leader and routine rigging, but can be damaged if you use them to twist heavy wire, crush oversized crimps or force a stuck hook. Choose a well-made aluminium pair with stainless steel jaw inserts or cutters where those hard-wearing contact points matter.

Stainless steel suits harder work

Stainless steel pliers generally feel more solid and can offer plenty of gripping power. They suit anglers who need a tougher tool for heavier hooks, wire traces, sleeves or rough boat work. However, stainless is not automatically rust-proof. It still needs a rinse and dry after saltwater use, especially around the pivot and cutter inserts.

For occasional fishing or a dedicated backup pair, stainless steel can be a sensible option. For frequent saltwater sessions, pay close attention to the quality of the finish, hinge and cutters rather than relying on the material name alone.

Avoid untreated steel around the coast

Plain carbon-steel pliers have a role in a shed, but they are rarely the right primary fishing tool for Australian saltwater. They rust quickly, especially when left wet in a boat hatch or tackle bag. If you fish freshwater only, they may get by, but purpose-built fishing pliers are a better fit for most anglers.

Choose jaws that suit hooks, rings and reach

Jaw shape changes how useful a pair feels. Needle-nose jaws are the most versatile option because they reach into a fish's mouth, grip hooks securely and work in tight spaces around split rings and terminals. They are the safe starting point for most recreational anglers.

Longer jaws provide more reach but sacrifice a little control. That extra length is worthwhile for larger fish, deep-set hooks and boat fishing where keeping hands clear is a priority. Shorter jaws are more precise for small bream hooks, fine wire rigs and detailed lure work.

Look closely at the inside of the jaws as well. Serrated gripping sections hold hooks, swivels and sleeves better than smooth jaws. Some models include dedicated crimping sections, which are useful if you make wire traces, game rigs or heavy leader connections. Do not assume every crimping notch suits every sleeve size - match the tool to the terminal tackle you use.

Split-ring jaws are a worthwhile feature for lure anglers. A small pointed section opens the ring cleanly so you can replace rusty trebles, fit singles or change assist hooks without bending fingernails or stabbing yourself. If you only use bait rigs and rarely alter lures, you may not need this feature. If your tackle trays are full of hardbodies, metals and jig heads, it saves a lot of frustration.

Do not compromise on braid cutters

A cutter that struggles with braid defeats much of the purpose of carrying fishing pliers. Braided line can flatten, fray or slip through poor cutters, leaving you sawing at it while a fish is feeding nearby.

Look for sharp side cutters or replaceable tungsten carbide cutter inserts. Tungsten carbide holds an edge well and is particularly useful for braid, fluorocarbon and mono. Replaceable inserts are a practical advantage for anglers who fish often, because the body and handles can stay in service when the cutting surfaces eventually wear.

Be realistic about cutter capacity. Fine braid and leader are easy work, but heavy mono, wire and cable can damage cutters that were never designed for them. If you use wire traces regularly, select pliers rated for wire or carry a dedicated trace cutter. Using the wrong cutter is one of the quickest ways to chip an otherwise good pair.

Check the grip, spring and hinge before buying

Pliers should be easy to operate one-handed. Test whether the handles sit comfortably in your palm and whether the spring opens the jaws smoothly. A spring-loaded design is particularly handy when you are holding a rod, leader or fish with the other hand.

Non-slip rubber or textured grips make a real difference when hands are wet, slimy or covered in sunscreen. Oversized grips can be comfortable for offshore and heavy-duty work, but may feel clumsy for finesse fishing. Smaller hands usually benefit from a compact handle and a light spring.

The hinge should open and close without wobble, grinding or stiffness. This is an easy detail to overlook, yet it affects every job the pliers do. A solid pivot also helps the jaws line up properly, which improves gripping and cutting performance.

A sheath and lanyard are part of the tool

Good pliers are only useful if they are within reach. A belt sheath, pouch or lanyard keeps them secure on the boat, at the beach or while walking a rocky headland. Dropping a quality pair overboard is expensive and avoidable.

Choose a sheath that holds the pliers firmly but releases them without a fight. A coiled lanyard is popular for boat fishing because it keeps the tool attached while allowing enough reach to work comfortably. For surf fishing, a pouch clipped to a belt or wading pack can be quicker and less prone to tangling.

Match the size to your fishing style

A compact 5 to 6-inch pair suits general estuary, freshwater, whiting, squid and bream fishing. It handles line, small hooks and light split rings without taking up much room. A 7 to 8-inch pair is a versatile middle ground for most saltwater boat and shore anglers, offering more leverage and reach for snapper, salmon, flathead and reef fishing.

Longer pliers are best when reach and leverage matter more than portability. They are useful for larger fish, offshore work and heavier rigs, but they can be awkward for delicate tackle tasks. Many committed anglers carry two pairs: a compact pair for line and lures, plus a longer pair for hook removal and heavier rigging.

At Reel ’N’ Deal Tackle, the practical approach is to build your kit around the species and techniques you fish most, then add specialised tools as your gear needs grow. A dependable pair of all-round pliers is a better first buy than a highly specialised tool that stays in the drawer.

Keep them working after every trip

Even corrosion-resistant fishing pliers need basic care. Rinse them with fresh water after saltwater use, open and close the jaws to flush the hinge, then dry them before storing them in their sheath. A light lubricant at the pivot from time to time helps keep the action smooth.

Do not store wet pliers inside a sealed tackle box for weeks. Saltwater trapped around cutter inserts, springs and screws will find its way into the smallest gaps. Check the cutters occasionally and replace inserts or springs when needed rather than waiting for them to fail on the water.

Pick the pair that handles your usual line, hooks and lure hardware with confidence, feels secure in a wet hand and can live through the conditions you fish. When a fish is on and your deck is moving, simple gear that works first time is the gear you will be glad you chose.