You can buy the right-looking egi, cast it into a patch of weed off Adelaide, and still wonder why you’re not getting grabbed. Nine times out of ten it’s not the jig - it’s how it’s rigged. Squid are fussy. If the jig tracks crooked, sinks too fast, or your knot kills the action, they’ll follow and ghost you.

This is the practical way to rig squid jigs so they swim true, sink at the right pace, and stay connected when you finally feel that heavy, sticky weight.

What “rigging” a squid jig actually means

When people ask how to rig squid jigs, they’re usually talking about more than tying on a lure. The rig is the whole system from your main line to the jig: the leader length and material, the knot, whether you use a clip, and any sinker or weight arrangement. Each piece changes how your egi sits in the water and how naturally it darts.

A good rig does three jobs. It keeps the jig tracking straight, it lets the jig move freely on the jerk and pause, and it minimises line twist and tangles - especially in wind or current.

The baseline setup (what we recommend most of the time)

For most South Australian land-based squid sessions - jetties, rocks, metro beaches, and the usual weed beds - a simple, clean connection wins.

Run braid on the reel (thin diameter casts better and helps you feel touches), then tie a fluorocarbon leader, then attach the jig. Keep the rig minimal so the jig can do what it was designed to do.

Main line: braid for feel and casting

A light braid is the go-to for egi because it cuts wind, casts small jigs well, and transmits that subtle “dead weight” bite. If you’re fishing shallow weed in clear water, a thinner braid helps you keep the jig from bowing out in current and makes it easier to work a controlled sink.

Leader: fluorocarbon for abrasion and stealth

Fluorocarbon leader is worth it around pylons, rocks, oysters and weed. Squid also get a good look at your jig on the pause, so a clear leader helps in bright conditions.

Leader length depends on where you’re fishing. Around jetties and snaggy structure, a slightly longer leader gives you abrasion insurance. In heavy wind, a shorter leader can be easier to manage and less likely to wrap around the rod tip.

Knots that suit squid jigging (and why)

You’re not chasing brute strength here - you’re chasing action. Your knot choice affects how freely the jig can swing and how straight it tracks.

Joining braid to leader

Use a slim joining knot that casts cleanly through the guides and doesn’t pick up weed. A well-tied FG knot is the cleanest option if you’re comfortable with it. If you want something quicker to tie while the bite’s on, a double uni can do the job, but it’s bulkier and can “tick” through guides on longer leaders.

The key is consistency. Whatever join you choose, tie it neatly, snug it down properly, and trim tags close. A sloppy join catches weed and creates little jerks in the retrieve that make the jig look wrong.

Leader to jig: loop knot vs clip

This is where most action gets lost.

If you tie directly to the jig with a standard clinch knot, you can restrict the tow point and make the jig nose down oddly on the pause. A loop knot gives the jig more freedom to swing and sit correctly.

A small quality clip can also work well and makes it easy to change jig sizes and sink rates quickly when the light or current changes. The trade-off is that a bulky or cheap clip can collect weed, spook squid in clear water, or alter the balance of smaller jigs. If you’re using clips, keep them small and strong and check they close properly - squid jigging involves plenty of snapping and slack.

How to rig squid jigs step-by-step (clean and reliable)

Start by spooling with braid suited to your rod and reel, then add your fluorocarbon leader.

Tie your braid to leader join neatly and test it with a firm pull. If you’re using a clip, tie the leader to the clip with a knot you trust and keep the tag end short.

Then attach the jig by the tow eye (the small eye near the nose). Before you cast, hold the jig by the leader and let it hang. It should sit level or with a very slight nose-down attitude, not rolling sideways. If it hangs crooked, something’s off - often the knot isn’t seated properly, the clip is too heavy, or the jig has been bent.

Finally, do a quick “swim check” in the shallows at your feet. A good rig will let the jig track straight and dart cleanly with a sharp lift of the rod.

Getting sink rate right: when to add weight (and when not to)

Sink rate is the difference between squid sitting on your jig and squid ignoring it. Your jig has a rated sink speed, but real-world sink rate changes with current, depth, line angle and wind.

In calm, shallow water you usually don’t want extra weight. Let the jig fall naturally and hover over the weed. If you add weight too early, the jig punches into weed and fouls the crown.

When the current is pushing hard, you’re fishing deeper edges, or you can’t stay in the zone long enough on the pause, that’s when adding weight makes sense.

Option 1: go up a jig size (the cleanest solution)

If you’re using a 2.5 and it’s not getting down, stepping up to a 3.0 or 3.5 is often better than adding external weight. The jig stays balanced, the action stays natural, and you don’t introduce extra tangles.

Option 2: add an egi sinker when conditions demand it

Clip-on squid jig sinkers are made for this. They add weight without messing with the hook crown, and they let you keep using a jig you know the squid are showing interest in.

The trade-off is that any added weight can change the way the jig glides and can make it sink more steeply. That’s not always bad - in current it can be exactly what you need - but it’s something to be aware of if squid are timid and only following.

Option 3: use a weighted leader setup (less common, but handy)

Some anglers add a small sinker above the jig on the leader to get down quicker. It can work, but it’s more prone to tangling on the cast and it can make the jig feel “dead” on the pause. If you go this route, keep the sinker small and give it enough distance from the jig that it doesn’t interfere with the tow point.

Avoid these common rigging mistakes

The quickest way to kill squid jig action is to overcomplicate the end of the line.

A leader that’s too heavy can make the jig pull oddly and reduce bites in clear water. A massive snap clip can do the same. Long tag ends are another classic problem - they catch weed and can even snag the crown on the cast.

Line twist is also a silent bite killer. It shows up as your jig spinning on the sink or your line coiling badly on the retrieve. Often it’s caused by working the jig too aggressively with too much slack, or by retrieving a spinning jig (sometimes from a bent tow eye or damaged body). If your jig spins, stop and fix it - don’t keep casting and hope.

Tweaks for SA spots: jetty pylons, weed beds and surf edges

Around jetties, abrasion is the real enemy. Keep enough fluorocarbon to handle an unexpected rub on a pylon, and check your leader often. One nick can cost you the best squid of the session.

Over weed beds, focus on a rig that keeps the jig hovering just above the weed. That usually means no extra weight, a controlled sink, and a knot or clip that doesn’t drag the nose down.

Along open beaches and surf edges, wind and sweep create a big belly in the line. Here, thinner braid and a slightly heavier jig (or an egi sinker) can help you stay in touch and keep the jig in the strike zone.

A quick gear note (so the rig behaves)

Your rod and drag settings matter because squid have soft tentacles. A responsive egi rod helps you work the jig without ripping it away, and a smooth drag stops you tearing the hooks free when a squid surges near the surface.

If you’re upgrading a full squid kit - braid, fluorocarbon, clips, egi sinkers, jig wallets and of course the jigs themselves - you can sort it in one hit at Reel ’N’ Deal Tackle.

The little check that saves sessions

After every squid (and after every snag), run your fingers down the last metre of leader and look at the jig’s tow eye and crown. If anything is bent, rough, or nicked, fix it immediately. Squid fishing is all about small advantages, and a straight-tracking jig on fresh leader is one of the biggest.

Next time you’re on the water, rig one jig properly, swim-test it at your feet, then fish it with confidence - squid can sense hesitation, but they can’t ignore a jig that’s doing exactly what it’s meant to do.