You feel it on the drop - that clean little tick - and for half a second it’s on. Then the line goes slack and you’re left staring at your jig like it personally betrayed you. More often than not, that’s an assist hook problem: the wrong length, the wrong size, the wrong orientation, or a rigging job that doesn’t let the hook bite.

Assist hooks look simple, but they’re one of those terminal pieces where small changes show up as missed bites, pulled hooks, and fish that find every weak point in your system. If you’re fishing metal jigs for snapper, samson fish, kingfish, tuna, or even deepwater species, learning how to rig assist hooks properly is one of the quickest upgrades you can make.

What assist hooks actually do (and why they work)

Unlike trebles or a single hook hung off the tail, an assist hook sits on a short cord at the head of the jig (or occasionally the tail). When a fish eats the jig, it’s usually aiming for the head - especially with flutter jigs, slow pitch jigs, and knife jigs worked with pauses. The cord lets the hook move independently, so the hook point can find purchase without the jig’s weight acting like a lever.

That “lever” is the big deal. When a heavy jig is connected directly to a hook, any head shakes can use the jig as a pendulum to tear the hook free. With an assist, the jig is on the split ring and the hook is on cord, so there’s less torque on the hook hold.

Before you start: match your assist to the jig and the fish

There’s no single perfect assist hook. The right rig depends on jig length, how you work it, and what you’re expecting to eat it.

Hook size is the obvious one, but length matters just as much. As a rule, you want the hook point to sit somewhere around the top third of the jig when it’s hanging. Too short and you’ll miss fish that nip mid-body. Too long and the hook can foul on the jig, wrap around the leader, or hook the split ring.

Cord strength is another trade-off. Thicker cord is tougher and lasts longer around teeth and gill plates, but it can make the hook sit awkwardly and reduce movement on light jigs. For aggressive fish and rough country, go up in cord strength. For finesse slow pitch where you want maximum flutter and minimal tangles, keep it tidy.

Tools and materials you’ll actually use

If you’re rigging a couple of assists at home, you don’t need a workshop. You do need the right little bits so the job doesn’t unravel on the first fish.

You’ll want quality assist hooks (or bare hooks if you’re building from scratch), assist cord (Kevlar or similar), solid rings, split rings, heatshrink, and a decent set of split ring pliers. A lighter or heat gun helps shrink tubing cleanly. Scissors will cut cord, but braid scissors or a sharp blade makes a neater job.

If you’re building lots, a small vice helps, but it’s not essential.

How to rig assist hooks: the clean, reliable method

There are a few ways to build assists. The goal is always the same: a strong connection to the ring, a hook that sits straight, and a finish that protects the knot and the cord.

Step 1: Choose solid ring vs split ring at the assist

Most anglers tie the cord to a solid ring, then connect that solid ring to the jig via a split ring. The solid ring gives you a smooth, strong anchor and reduces wear on the cord. If you tie directly to a split ring, the cord can chafe over time, especially if you fish heavy drag.

For most jigging in SA - snapper, kings, sambos - solid ring plus split ring is the go-to.

Step 2: Cut cord to the right length (and account for the knot)

Measure from the solid ring to where you want the hook to sit, then add extra length for the knot and for folding the cord. Most people cut it too short on the first go.

A quick check: hang the jig from the ring and hold the assist next to it. You want enough length that the hook point sits roughly around that top third, but not so long it can reach the tail and foul.

Step 3: Tie the cord to the solid ring

A simple, strong approach is a folded cord with a snug knot around the ring. Many anglers use a variation of a lark’s head (cow hitch) to attach the folded cord to the solid ring, then lock it down with whipping or heatshrink. Others prefer tying a dedicated knot with the tag ends.

What matters is that the cord sits centred on the ring and doesn’t slip under load.

If you’re using a hitch, pull it tight and check it seats cleanly. If it bunches up, redo it - bunching creates a stress point.

Step 4: Attach the hook so it can’t roll or twist

This is where assists either fish brilliantly or fish like a tangled mess. The hook should sit in line with the cord, not cocked sideways.

Most proper assist hooks have an eye sized for cord. Thread the cord through the hook eye, then form your knot so the hook shank lines up with the cord. Some anglers add a short section of heatshrink over the eye and cord to keep the hook “presented” properly.

If your hook eye is too small for the cord, don’t force it. Either step down in cord thickness or use a hook designed for assist building.

Step 5: Lock it down with heatshrink (neat, not bulky)

Heatshrink isn’t just cosmetic. It protects the knot from abrasion, keeps the cord from fraying, and helps hold the hook at the right angle.

Slide a short length over the cord and knot area, then shrink it carefully. Don’t cook it - too much heat can weaken some cords. You want it tight enough to grip, not melted.

Step 6: Add flash only if it helps your bite rate

Flash (tinsel, skirts, or fibres) can help on slower days, especially when fish are picking at the jig rather than smashing it. The downside is extra tangles and a slightly slower hook-up if you overdo it.

If you’re fishing rough ground or you’re getting short bites, a modest amount of flash can be worth it. If you’re getting clean eats, keep the assist simple and strong.

Single assist, twin assist, or stinger - what suits SA conditions?

A single assist is tidy, tangles less, and suits smaller jigs or faster jigging where the jig is moving a lot. It’s also a good choice when you want deeper penetration and less hardware around the fish.

Twin assists (two hooks on the same ring) can increase hook-up rate on bigger jigs and on fish that slash rather than inhale. The trade-off is more fouling potential, especially if the assists are too long or the jig is fluttering on slack line.

A stinger assist on the tail can help if fish are consistently nipping the back of the jig. But it also adds another snag point and can turn a clean jigging setup into a tangle if your technique is messy. If you add a tail stinger, keep it short and check it can’t reach the leader.

Common rigging mistakes that cost fish

The most common mistake is assist length that’s too long. If the hook can reach the split ring, it will. If it can wrap your leader on the drop, it will. Shorten it until it stops being a problem.

The next is mismatched hardware - split rings that are too light, or a solid ring that’s too small and pinches the cord. The ring should be strong enough for your drag and fish size, and smooth enough not to cut fibres.

Finally, don’t ignore orientation. If the hook point sits hard against the jig body, it has less chance of biting. A properly presented hook sits proud and free.

Quick checks before you fish the assist

Give the cord a hard pull. If anything slips, redo it at home, not on the water. Run your fingers over the cord near the ring and hook eye - if you feel rough spots or fibres lifting, replace it.

Also check the assist doesn’t foul when you shake the jig. Hold the jig by the leader, give it a gentle flick, and see if the hook repeatedly catches the jig. If it does, it’s usually length or too much flash.

Getting the right components without guesswork

If you’re building assists regularly, keeping a small kit at home saves time: a few hook sizes, two or three cord strengths, a couple of solid ring sizes, and split rings that match your jig weight class. That way you can match the assist to the day’s plan rather than forcing one rig to do everything.

For anglers who want to stock up on the right jigging hardware in one hit - hooks, cord, rings, split ring pliers, and the jigs themselves - Reel ’n’ Deal Tackle keeps the rigging components and technique-specific gear together so you’re not running all over town to finish a setup.

A good assist hook rig isn’t fancy. It’s just correct. When the bite is touchy and you’re fishing deep, that’s the difference between a solid connection and another “tick” that never turns into weight on the rod.

Keep your assists short, strong, and clean - and when you finally come up tight, don’t rush it. Let the hook do its job, then lift and wind like you mean it.