A tuna trolling spread example is only useful if it runs cleanly behind your boat. There is no point copying a photo of five lures set at perfect distances if your wake is different, your crew is short-handed or your lures are blowing out every second turn. Start with a spread you can deploy, watch and clear quickly. Then tune it to the sea state, bait activity and tuna you are finding.

For most Australian trailer boats chasing southern bluefin, yellowfin or longtail, a five-rod pattern gives plenty of coverage without turning the cockpit into a knot factory. It covers the clean water beyond the prop wash, creates different lure actions and keeps your best hook-up positions easy to reach.

A practical tuna trolling spread example

The starting point below suits a boat with outriggers and a clear wake. It is designed around two short lures working hard in the wash, two rigger lures covering clean lanes, and one long centre lure for fish tracking the spread.

Short corner - the close, aggressive lure

Run a medium to large pusher or cup-faced lure just outside the thickest white water, usually 8 to 15 metres behind the transom. This lure should pop, dive and leave a regular smoke trail rather than cartwheeling across the surface.

The short corner is a high-percentage position when tuna are feeding hard. It is close enough to set and retrieve fast, which matters when a fish crashes the lure beside the boat or a double hook-up starts. A darker head, purple, black-red or blue-black pattern can stand out well in dirty water and low light, although lure action is more important than colour.

Long corner - the second wash lane

Set the long corner on the opposite side, generally 15 to 25 metres back. Choose a lure that has a slightly different profile or face from the short corner. If the short lure is a loud surface pusher, try a slant-faced or bullet-style lure that tracks a little deeper and cleaner.

The two corner lures should never sit on top of one another through a turn. Watch their paths rather than relying solely on a measured distance. On some hulls, shifting a lure one metre sideways or five metres back makes the difference between a reliable swimming lure and one that skips.

Short rigger - your clean-water worker

The short rigger normally runs 20 to 35 metres behind the boat, clipped from the outrigger and placed just beyond the worst prop wash. This is often one of the most consistent positions for tuna because it gives the lure clean water while retaining enough movement and noise from the boat.

A medium-sized straight runner, bullet head or small cup face is a dependable choice here. Make sure the lure is matched to your trolling speed. A lure that looks excellent at 6 knots may tumble at 8 knots, so check each one before putting the spread away.

Long rigger - the wide search lure

Set the long rigger farther back than the short rigger, often 35 to 50 metres behind the boat. It should run wide enough that a turning boat does not drag it through the inside lines. A smaller bullet lure is a useful choice for this position, particularly when tuna are feeding on small bait.

This lure is your search tool. It sits away from the commotion, looks more like a fleeing baitfish and can pick up fish that refuse the close lures. In clear blue water, natural blue, silver, green and flying-fish tones are sensible starting points. On overcast days or when bait is thick, a brighter lumo, pink or contrast pattern may earn attention.

Shotgun - the trailing target

Run the shotgun down the middle, usually 50 to 70 metres back, depending on the boat, sea state and size of the lures ahead of it. This is not simply the farthest lure in the spread. It needs to sit in clean water and remain visible behind the other lines.

A small bullet, weighted skirted lure or swimming stickbait-style trolling lure can work well on the shotgun. Keep its profile different from the rigger lures. A tuna that has followed the spread may see this final offering as the easy meal and commit.

Set the pattern to your wake, not a tape measure

Distances are a starting reference, not a rule. A deep-V offshore boat can leave a very different wash to a plate aluminium centre console, even at the same speed. Wind, swell direction, trim-tab position and crew weight also change where clean water begins.

Before setting every rod, put one lure in at a time and watch it for at least 30 seconds. The right lure will swim with a repeating rhythm: pop, dive, smoke, then reset. If it tumbles, tracks on its side or launches clear of the water, alter the distance first. If that does not fix it, reduce speed or change the lure position.

A good spread should show separation from the helm. You want to identify each lure at a glance, especially while turning on birds, bait schools or a surface bust-up. Keep the short lures close enough to clear in a hurry and give the long rigger and shotgun enough room to work without crossing.

Rigging that supports the spread

A clean tuna spread starts at the rod tip. Use tackle balanced to the tuna size and your intended trolling speed, with quality braid or monofilament, a suitable wind-on leader and properly crimped or tied connections. Heavy game gear is not always better. Oversized line can reduce lure action, while gear that is too light can make a fast, crowded bite hard to manage.

For skirted lures, ensure hook rigs sit straight in the skirts and do not foul the lure head. Check the point is sharp, the shank is not corroded and the leader has no nicks from previous fish. If you are using single or double hooks, rig them in line with the lure rather than letting them hang sideways. Local rules, fishery requirements and the skipper's preferred release method should guide hook selection.

Outrigger clips, release clips and tag lines need enough tension to hold a lure in position without making a strike difficult to detect. Test the system before the first serious run. A line that keeps creeping out of the clip can destroy the shape of the spread and create a tangle when a fish hits another rod.

When to simplify the spread

Five lures are not compulsory. In rough water, on a small boat, or with only one angler and one deckie, a four-rod spread is often smarter. Run two corners and two riggers, or two riggers with a short corner and shotgun. You will spend less time clearing crossed lines and more time keeping lures working properly.

If birds are sitting on tiny bait or tuna are slashing at micro pilchards, scale down rather than dragging a full set of big lure heads. Smaller bullets, diving minnows or skirted lures with slim profiles can better match the feed. Conversely, when fish are charging through bigger slimy mackerel or saury, a larger, louder corner lure can be the one they notice first.

Teasers can add interest, but they also add work. A dredge, bird teaser or daisy chain may raise tuna in calm conditions, yet it must be easy to retrieve when a fish appears. For many crews, well-tuned lures in clear lanes outperform a complicated spread that cannot be cleared safely.

Make changes with a reason

Do not change every lure after 20 quiet minutes. Tuna can be travelling deep, feeding on a different bait line or simply not in the patch you are working. Give a sound spread enough time, while watching the sounder, temperature breaks, current edges, bait and birds.

When a fish strikes, treat the position as useful information. If the long rigger gets hit twice, consider moving a similar lure into another clean lane. If tuna are only eating a small natural-coloured bullet on the shotgun, reduce the size of the rest of the spread. Keep notes on trolling speed, water colour, lure position and successful patterns. They become far more valuable than copying a generic setup next trip.

The best tuna spread is not the one with the most gear behind the boat. It is the one that stays swimming, stays clear through a turn and lets your crew react properly when the water erupts. Build it carefully at the ramp, check every lure in the wake, and you will spend more of the day fishing rather than fixing tangles.