What Does Egi Mean in Fishing?
You’re on a jetty in SA, the water’s clear enough to see ribbon weed and pylons, and someone two spots down calls out: “They’re on - switch to a 3.0 egi!” If you’ve ever nodded politely while wondering what on earth that meant, you’re not alone.
What does egi mean fishing?
In fishing, “egi” refers to squid fishing with specialised squid jigs - and by extension, the whole technique of targeting squid (especially southern calamari) using those jigs. The word comes from Japan, where squid jigging is a huge scene, and the tackle and terminology have travelled with it.
So when people say “I’m going for an egi”, they usually mean one of two things: they’re going squid fishing, or they’re talking about the squid jig itself (also called an egi jig).
In South Australia, “egi” is most often heard around calamari sessions from jetties, rocks, and inshore reefs. It’s popular because it’s clean, simple, and effective - no bait, no berley trail to manage, and the gear is purpose-built to make squid commit.
What an egi jig actually is (and why it’s different)
An egi jig is not a normal lure with trebles. It’s built specifically to get grabbed and held by squid tentacles.
Most egi jigs have a weighted keel so they sink belly-down and track straight. They’re also wrapped in cloth (often with a textured finish) that holds scent better than hard plastic. At the rear, you’ll see a crown of barbless prongs rather than hooks - that’s what the squid gets pinned on when it lunges and wraps.
The whole point is to look like a prawn or small baitfish, then behave like one. Squid are visual hunters. If your jig sinks at the right speed, sits at the right angle, and darts cleanly when you work it, you’ll get follows, grabs, and solid hookups.
Egi sizes: what the numbers mean
Egi sizes are typically written as 2.5, 3.0, 3.5 and so on. That number is mainly about the jig’s body length and weight class, which affects casting distance and sink rate.
As a rough guide for SA shore-based squid fishing:
- 2.5 is a great all-rounder in shallower water or calm conditions.
- 3.0 is the common “start here” size for jetties and moderate depth.
- 3.5 is handy when you need extra cast distance, a faster sink, or you’re fishing deeper edges.
Sink rate: the overlooked detail
Most egi packaging includes a sink rate like “3.0 sec/m”. That’s not marketing fluff - it’s one of the quickest ways to match your jig to conditions.
In calm, shallow water, a slower sink can keep you in the strike zone longer. In deeper water or strong run, a faster sink stops your jig drifting up and away from the bottom structure where calamari often sit.
Egi fishing technique: the basics that actually matter
Egi fishing looks simple, but small changes in rhythm and positioning can be the difference between a quiet session and a full bucket.
Start by thinking in layers. Squid might sit hard on the bottom near weed edges, or they might suspend mid-water along pylons. Your job is to present the jig through the zone they’re using.
A common approach is cast out, let it sink, then work it back with a series of sharp lifts of the rod tip (often called “jerks” or “rips”), followed by a pause. That pause is where many bites happen - squid follow the darting jig, then pounce when it looks like it’s settling.
If you’re fishing a jetty, don’t just fan casts straight out. Work angles along the pylons and across likely lines where weed meets sand. If you’re on rocks, fish the edges of reef and broken ground rather than blind casting into the deepest water.
What a squid bite feels like
It’s rarely a big “thump”. Often it feels like:
- extra weight that wasn’t there a moment ago
- a slow, spongy pull
- the jig stopping mid-sink
The right egi setup for SA squid
You can catch squid on a basic spin combo, but egi-specific gear makes it easier - especially if you fish jetties often.
Rod: why “egi rods” feel different
An egi rod is typically a longer, light outfit designed for casting light-ish jigs and working them crisply. The tip is responsive for flicking the jig, but there’s enough mid-section to control a hooked squid without ripping free.
If you’re using a general light spin rod, aim for something around 7’6 to 8’6 with a lighter tip. Too stiff and you’ll struggle to work smaller jigs properly - and you’ll drop more squid boatside.
Reel and line: braid helps you feel everything
A 2500-size reel is a sweet spot for most shore egi. Pair it with thin braid for casting distance and sensitivity. Braid also helps you detect that “nothing bite” when the jig stops mid-sink.
Then add a fluorocarbon leader. Squid can be finicky in clear water, and leader abrasion resistance matters around pylons, reef and jetty structure.
Knots and clips: keep it simple, but do it right
Many anglers tie direct to the leader with a loop knot so the jig has freedom to swim. Others use a small egi clip for quick changes - handy when you’re swapping sizes and colours as light and water colour change.
The trade-off is that clips are one more bit of hardware in front of the jig. In dirty water it won’t matter. In ultra-clear, calm conditions, a clean direct tie can get more follows to convert.
Colour, cloth and conditions: how to choose an egi
If you stand at a tackle wall long enough, you’ll see every colour under the sun. The trick is not to overthink it.
In clear water and bright days, natural tones often do well - prawn browns, olive, translucent finishes. In low light, murky water, or when you need the jig to stand out, brighter colours can pull attention.
Glow and UV patterns are worth having in the box too, especially for dawn, dusk, night sessions under lights, or when fishing deeper water. They’re not magic, but they can give the squid something to lock onto.
Cloth colour and body profile matter, but presentation matters more. A perfectly chosen colour worked too fast can still get ignored. A “wrong” colour paused at the right time will still get eaten.
Common egi mistakes (and quick fixes)
A lot of “no squid around” sessions are really “my jig isn’t spending time in the right zone”.
If you’re constantly snagging weed, give the jig less sink time, lift higher on the retrieve, or drop down a size/sink rate. If you’re never touching bottom in deeper water, you may need to count it down longer or go up a size.
If squid are following but not grabbing, slow down. Longer pauses, smaller rips, and a slightly lighter jig can make the lure look less aggressive. Also check your crown - bent prongs or weed fouling will ruin hookups.
And if you’re dropping squid right at the net, that’s usually drag and technique. Keep steady pressure, don’t high-stick the rod, and use a squid net or gaff designed for it. Squid are soft. You’re not trying to skull-drag them.
Egi fishing in SA: where it shines
Egi is ideal for the way many South Aussies fish - quick sessions after work, jetty missions, or a few casts off the rocks when conditions line up.
Southern calamari love weed beds near reef, broken ground, and areas with structure that holds bait. Jetties can be brilliant when there’s light, food, and a bit of depth. After a blow, you may find the water dirtier and the squid pushed into more protected edges.
One more practical note: squid ink is part of the deal. Bring a rag, keep your squid pointed away from you, and don’t lift them swinging through the air unless you enjoy explaining ink stains at home.
Stocking the egi box without wasting money
You don’t need twenty jigs to get started. You need a small range that covers depth and visibility.
A sensible starting spread is a couple of 2.5s and 3.0s, plus one 3.5 for wind or depth, in a mix of natural and brighter tones. Add a leader spool and a way to store jigs so the crowns aren’t tangling - it’ll save you time and prongs.
If you want to build that out with the right sizes, leaders, clips and storage from one place, Reel ’N’ Deal Tackle keeps a deep squid and egi range alongside the everyday essentials, so you’re not stitching a setup together from three different shops.
A good egi session isn’t about doing anything fancy - it’s about putting the jig in front of squid, at the right depth, at the right speed, and paying attention when the line does something slightly odd.