A fish runs hard across a shallow reef edge, your braid is close to the rocks, and suddenly every metre of line matters. This is where anglers often ask, what is a top shot and whether it belongs on their reel. Put simply, a top shot is a length of line added on top of your main line - most often braid - to give you practical benefits such as abrasion resistance, stretch, easier handling or better casting performance.

It is not a complicated bit of tackle-shop jargon. A well-chosen top shot can make a setup more forgiving around sharp structure, easier to use when a fish is boatside, and better suited to the way you fish. The right material and length depend on whether you are chasing whiting in the shallows, working lures for barra, fishing offshore reefs or trolling game gear.

What is a top shot on a fishing reel?

A top shot is the upper section of line on a reel - the line closest to your lure, bait, rig or leader. In Australian fishing, it usually means mono or fluorocarbon line spooled over a braided backing. The braid fills most of the spool and provides a thin diameter with plenty of line capacity. The top shot then adds the characteristics braid does not offer as well.

For example, an offshore angler may fill a reel with braid, then add a substantial length of monofilament before connecting a leader and lure. A lure caster might use braid as their main line with a shorter fluorocarbon top shot for better abrasion resistance around rock bars. There is no single mandatory length. The setup needs to match the rod, reel, target species and fishing ground.

The term can also be used differently by anglers in different fisheries. Some call any section of line above braid a top shot. Others reserve it for a longer length of mono, while calling a short terminal section a leader. The important distinction is what the line is doing, rather than the label on the packet.

Top shot, backing and leader: know the difference

These three sections are easy to confuse, especially when you are rigging a reel for the first time.

Backing is the line at the bottom of the spool. Braid often acts as backing under a mono top shot, although dacron backing is still common on some game outfits. Its job is to build spool capacity and provide plenty of line if a powerful fish takes off.

A top shot sits over that backing. It is generally longer than a standard leader and may be anything from several metres to hundreds of metres, depending on the technique. Its job is to change how the overall line system behaves.

A leader is the terminal section closest to the lure, hook or swivel. It is selected mainly for abrasion resistance, visibility and knot strength. Fluorocarbon leader is popular for clear water, rough bottom and wary fish, while heavier mono leader is a dependable option for many bait and trolling rigs.

You can run all three: braid backing, a mono top shot, then a fluorocarbon leader. Or you might fish braid straight to a fluorocarbon leader, with no separate top shot at all. Both are legitimate approaches.

Why use a top shot over braid?

Braid is exceptionally useful. It has a fine diameter, low stretch and excellent sensitivity, which helps when working soft plastics, vibes, squid jigs and bottom rigs. But it has limited abrasion resistance against reef, oysters, jetty pylons and a fish's rough mouth. It can also be awkward to grab when landing a fish and provides little shock absorption during sudden runs.

A mono top shot adds stretch. That bit of give can be useful when trolling lures, fishing live baits or fighting heavy fish close to the boat. It helps soften abrupt pressure from a surging kingfish, tuna or mulloway, and can reduce pulled hooks when the boat is moving in swell.

Fluorocarbon top shots are less common in very long lengths because fluorocarbon is stiffer and usually more expensive than mono. Still, a moderate fluorocarbon section can be worthwhile when casting lures around abrasive country or chasing species in clear water. It sinks faster than mono and is less visible underwater, although it is not invisible.

A top shot also gives you a more manageable line to hold when netting a fish or bringing it alongside. That matters from a boat, kayak or rocks, where the final few metres can be the most chaotic part of the fight.

Choosing mono or fluorocarbon for your top shot

Monofilament is the all-round choice for longer top shots. It is supple, easy to knot, has useful stretch and is available in a wide range of breaking strains. It works particularly well for trolling, general offshore fishing, surf fishing and bait fishing where shock absorption is valuable.

Fluorocarbon is better suited to shorter top shots and leaders where abrasion resistance and lower visibility are priorities. It is a strong option around reef and rocky ledges, or when fish are fussy in clear conditions. The trade-off is stiffness. On smaller reels, heavy fluorocarbon can spring off the spool and affect casting if it is not matched properly.

For most anglers, mono is the sensible starting point if you are adding a substantial top shot to braid. Use fluorocarbon closer to the terminal end when conditions or structure justify it. There is no need to overcomplicate a setup that is already catching fish.

How long should a fishing top shot be?

Length is where purpose matters most. For light estuary lure fishing, a top shot may only be one to three rod lengths. That is enough to provide a buffer near the lure without putting a bulky connection knot through the rod guides on every cast.

For beach fishing, a longer mono section can help absorb the force of casting a sinker and bait. It also copes better with sand, weed and wash than braid alone. Offshore bottom bashers may use several metres to provide protection against reef and make landing fish easier.

Game and trolling outfits can use much longer mono top shots. The amount depends on line class, reel capacity, boat handling and the species being targeted. On these setups, the stretch and handling benefits of mono become a major part of the system rather than an afterthought.

Do not fill a reel to the lip with a heavy top shot just because it seems tougher. Too much line or the wrong diameter can cause poor casting, loose coils and frustrating tangles. Leave a small gap below the spool edge and test the outfit before a serious trip.

Connecting braid to a top shot

The connection between braid and top shot needs to be slim, strong and suited to the line diameters involved. For lighter spinning and baitcasting outfits, an FG knot is a popular choice because it passes through guides cleanly when tied correctly. An improved Albright or double uni can be quicker to tie and is perfectly workable where the knot does not need to travel through guides often.

For heavier offshore and game applications, hollow-core braid splicing, wind-on leaders and purpose-built loop connections may be the better option. These systems are designed for heavier drag pressures and controlled leadering at the boat.

Whichever connection you choose, practise it at home first. Test it hard with gloves or a towel, trim tag ends neatly and inspect it after a rough session. A poor knot can undo the benefits of even the best line selection.

When a top shot is not the best choice

A top shot is useful, but it is not compulsory. If you are casting small hardbodies or soft plastics all day for bream, flathead or trout, braid straight to a fluorocarbon leader is often lighter, simpler and more responsive. A long mono section can reduce sensitivity and make a lure less direct to work.

Likewise, if you need maximum line capacity on a smaller reel, a thick top shot may take up too much room. In deep water or when targeting fast-running fish, that lost capacity can matter. Go lighter, shorten the top shot, or use braid to a suitable leader instead.

Think of the top shot as a tuning tool. Use it when it solves a real problem: sharp country, harsh runs, casting shock, fish-at-the-boat control or trolling pressure. Skip it when it adds bulk without a benefit.

Before your next session, look at the water you will fish, the species you expect and where most lost fish happen. If the answer is around the last few metres of line, a properly matched top shot may be the simple change your setup needs.