You’ve finally found the fish - then the line touches a barnacle edge, a jetty pylon, or the wash at your feet, and it’s all over in a split second. If you’ve fished SA’s metro jetties, rocky points, or surf gutters for any length of time, you’ve seen it happen. Top shot fishing is one of the simplest ways to stack the odds back in your favour without re-spooling every time conditions change.

What is top shot fishing?

What is top shot fishing? It’s running two different line types on the same reel - usually braid as your mainline, with a longer “top shot” of monofilament or fluorocarbon tied on and wound onto the spool. Instead of a short leader (say 1-2 rod lengths), a top shot is long enough that you’ll have several wraps on the spool. In practice, that means the line you cast and fight on near the fish is mono or fluoro, while most of your capacity remains thin braid.

In other words, you get braid’s line capacity and sensitivity, plus mono/fluoro’s abrasion resistance, shock absorption, and sometimes better handling around structure.

A quick terminology note: anglers sometimes call any join from braid to mono a “top shot”, but the classic top shot is longer than a typical leader. Think 10-30 metres on a spin reel, or more on overhead/game setups, depending on the job.

Why anglers run a top shot (and why it matters)

Top shots aren’t a fashion trend - they solve specific problems.

Abrasion and “landing zone” protection

Braid is strong for its diameter, but it’s not built to rub across pylons, reef, rock ledges, or shell grit in the shore break. Mono and fluoro generally tolerate abrasion far better, so a top shot gives you a buffer where you’re most likely to get touched up - the last part of the fight, or any time the fish circles near structure.

Shock absorption for sudden hits

Mono has stretch. That’s not always a negative. When salmon smash a metal at pace, when a mulloway head-shakes near the net, or when you’re fishing locked-up drags around snags, that stretch can stop pulled hooks and popped knots. Fluoro stretches less than mono, but still tends to be more forgiving than straight braid.

Better handling in some real-world situations

Depending on your setup, braid can dig into itself on the spool under high load, and it can be less forgiving of sloppy winding or sudden surges. A top shot can reduce those issues because the working section has a bit more “give” and often lays on the spool more cleanly.

It’s not always a win, though. A top shot adds a knot that must pass through guides, and that join is only as good as your tying and your line management.

Top shot vs leader: what’s the difference?

A leader is usually short and purely about stealth, abrasion protection, and bite resistance near the lure or bait. A top shot is a longer working section designed to change how the whole outfit behaves under cast and load.

If you only need a bit of rub protection and invisibility, a standard leader is typically simpler. If you’re repeatedly fishing terrain that chews braid, if you want extra shock absorption, or if your chosen line class for the bite doesn’t match what you want for spool capacity, that’s when a top shot starts making sense.

When top shot fishing makes the most sense in SA

Top shots are common across Australia, but they’re especially handy in the scenarios SA anglers fish week in, week out.

Jetty and harbour structure

Metro jetties and harbour walls are unforgiving. A long mono or fluoro top shot gives you a fighting chance when a fish runs a pylon line or you’re forced to lift and guide it through angles you didn’t plan.

Surf and shallow wash

The surf “landing zone” is rough on braid - sand, shell, weed, and constant tension changes in the wash. A top shot can take the punishment while your braid stays back on the spool.

Rock ledges and reefy ground

If you’re casting lures over reef or fishing baits where fish can rub you off quickly, a heavier top shot is a practical compromise. You keep braid’s castability and capacity, but the contact zone is tougher.

Big fish on smaller reels

Sometimes you want the capacity of braid but the rules (or the reality of the fish) want a thicker line in play. Top shots are a classic way to carry plenty of braid backing while still fishing an appropriate “working” line.

Choosing mono or fluoro for your top shot

Mono top shots are popular because they’re cost-effective, easy to handle, and forgiving. They’re a great choice if your main goal is shock absorption and abrasion resistance, especially for bait fishing, surf work, and general casting.

Fluorocarbon top shots cost more, and they’re stiffer, but they bring excellent abrasion resistance and lower visibility. They can be a strong pick when fish are line-shy, the water’s clear, or you want a slightly firmer feel than mono without going back to straight braid.

If you’re unsure, mono is usually the most practical starting point. You can always move to fluorocarbon once you’ve proved the concept on your own gear.

How long should a top shot be?

There’s no magic number - it depends on how you fish.

On spin gear, many anglers run enough top shot that the knot sits well down the spool when casting, with several wraps of mono/fluoro on the spool. That reduces the chance of the knot clacking through guides under load and helps casting consistency.

If you’re fishing around serious abrasion or you’re often fighting fish close to structure, go longer. If you’re lure casting all day and want maximum distance and minimal knot interference, go shorter - but still longer than a standard leader if you want the benefits that make a top shot worth doing.

The trade-off is simple: longer top shot equals more protection and stretch in the working zone, but more mono/fluoro on the spool can reduce capacity and can increase memory and coiling compared to braid.

Knots and connections that actually hold

Your top shot join has to do two things: hold under heavy load and travel through guides without catching. That makes knot choice and tying quality non-negotiable.

For braid to mono/fluoro, many anglers rely on the FG knot because it’s slim and strong when tied correctly. Others prefer a PR knot (often using a bobbin tool) for repeatable strength, especially on heavier setups. For lighter outfits or quick rigs, a Double Uni can work, but it’s bulkier and more likely to tap guides, particularly with thicker mono.

Whatever you choose, test it hard. A top shot setup is only as reliable as that join - and if it fails, it usually fails at the worst possible moment.

Setting your drag and fishing style with a top shot

A top shot changes how your system behaves. With mono in the working section, you can often run a touch more drag without instant heartbreak, because the stretch buys you time during head shakes and surges. That said, too much drag still breaks lines and opens hooks - stretch just masks it until it’s too late.

With fluorocarbon, you’ll feel a bit closer to braid behaviour. It’s still more forgiving than straight braid, but don’t expect it to save sloppy drag settings.

A practical habit is to check your top shot frequently. Run your fingers along the last few metres after a fish, after a snag, or after a rough retrieve through weed or reef. If you feel scuffs or nicks, cut back and re-tie. That’s the whole point of having a sacrificial working section.

Common mistakes (and how to avoid them)

The biggest issue is running a knot that’s too bulky for your guides. If it catches on the cast, you’ll lose distance, risk wind knots, and eventually weaken the join. Match your knot to your rod guides and the thickness difference between braid and top shot.

Another common mistake is choosing a top shot that’s too heavy for the rod’s casting weight or the lure/bait you’re using. If your top shot is thick and stiff, it can reduce casting performance and create coiling, especially on smaller spools.

Finally, don’t ignore line lay. If the top shot isn’t wound on under tension, it can bed in unevenly and cause trouble later. Spool it properly once, and you’ll spend more time fishing and less time fixing problems.

Gearing up without overthinking it

Top shot fishing doesn’t require exotic gear, but the right components make it easier: quality braid as backing, a mono or fluorocarbon spool suited to your target species and terrain, and the tools to tie clean, repeatable knots. If you want to build a top shot setup matched to your local spots and the species you’re chasing, you can pull the right braid, mono/fluoro, leader gear and terminal tackle in one place at Reel ’N’ Deal Tackle.

Fishing is full of tiny decisions that don’t feel important until the exact moment they are - a top shot is one of those decisions. Give yourself a bit more abrasion resistance, a bit more forgiveness, and a working end you can refresh quickly, and you’ll fish with more confidence when it counts.